To contemplate Dubai's ever-changi0ng skyline through a haze of fruity shisha smoke head down to QD's, a popular creek-side quarterdeck and regular hangout for those wishing to see and be seen. Attracted by live music, a range of sisha flavours and the option of majilis-style seating, the venue's clientele varies from the hip, rich and beautiful to rowdy teens enjoying a shared smoke. What staff lack in English they more than make up for with welcoming enthusiasm, but the food menu is not so accommodating and the falafel or fresh-baked pizza may be unavailable.